After a great sleep last night the brisk morning woke us up right away. Temperatures were now starting our day around the minus 5 mark and soon will be dropping lower as we climb higher. Breakfasts were now taking a regular menu and each of us were ordering the same things - muesli, porridge and a buckwheat pancake instead of toast. The terrain today wasn't super steep but we always were climbing. It was a slog of a walk today and for the 6-7 hours we went, things just pressed on and on.
As we made our way parallel to the river, the mountains grew larger and became more spectacular every step of the way. Before we stopped for lunch, I looked at my GPS and it was reading over the 10,000 foot mark - hooray! Almost at the same landmark, we were passing a Japanese memorial paid to those who've lost their lives climbing for their country in Nepal's mountain. The memorials seemed to just have sprung up and were in a peaceful area surrounded by trees as the sunshine cast shadows over their memorials. As a tribute, passer-bye's would stop and give a moment of silence to pay their respects. So many people have lost their lives on these mountains and they've paved the way to new explorations so we can follow in their paths.
Continuing on to our destination for the night, the paths were totally clear and were like walking on a park trail in Stanley Park. Our tea hut this night was great - we had a great view of Upper Pisang, this medieval-style village that scaled the hillside and offered centuries worth of history from those living there. It would be part of our walk the next day...
Day 6: Lower Pisang to Manang (Distance: 19.75km (Elevation 3540m))
Today was by far our hardest day as right from the get go we were climbing. With frost on the tin roofs and jackets zipped up to stay warm, we made off for the hike. We went up through Upper Pisang to see all the ancient architecture and prayer wheels that sprung up through much of the village. What a gorgeous place, something that none of of had expected from this hike! After passing through Upper Pisang we continued up the hill so a series of switchbacks that moved us from the Marsyandi River all the way up to a monestary at Ghyaru, 11,500 feet. We had been climbing straight up for almost 2 hours on a trail similar to the one that takes you up to Garibaldi and Black Tusk. Stopping for dude chhia (milk tea) at the monestary, we got some great photos.
After our tea we pressed on, up and up and up - and more up, then some down, then some flats, right into Manang. There was this one area where we both saw a vulture and got a great shot of Nic (and might I add it's now her Blog backdrop photo...haha). Passing bye views of Gangapurna, Tilcho Peak and both Annapurna 2 & 3 we rolled into Ngawal where Surya and Nic helped make the momo's they'd ordered for lunch. This is unlike many Nepali families to offer guests into their kitchen but this time they did and it was with gratitude they accepted and went for it.
7 hours after we started for the day, we rolled into Manang and called it a day (for 2). Here we would spend the next 48 hours acclimatizing for the push over the next 2 1/2 days. With a good rest and hike planned for tomorrow Day 6 ends...
Day 7: Acclimatization Day in Manang:
A morning sunrise at 5:30 with my tripod and SLR camera started my day. We had a local hike planned today to get used to hiking at altitude and exerting lots of effort. There was a gompa behind the tea hut and it took us just over 30 minutes to climb to it. The whole team made it with no problems and we even had some energy left over for some laughs! Ya, that's right... Bill IS wearing his face mask as a thong.
We came back down to have a bite to eat then set off for another walk around Manang to see what it's all about and we came across a great lake called Gangapurna Lake. It was obviously glacier-fed and had a pristine aqua colour to it. On one side there were huge hulu's formed from years of erosion giving this small puddle some real character. To give the area some perspective, you can see how small we are in the photo compared to all that was around us...
Day 8: Manang to Yak Kharka (Distance: not much (Elevation: LOTS - 4022m)).
The wind was howling today and I still can't understand WHY generators aren't used here to foster power from it... it is a developing country so in a few years I hope they get it straight! Today's hike wasn't too bad - a little up, a little down - you know. You can really feel the drop in temperature now as we're well above the 10,000 ft mark and as we make our way further up into alpine territory the down jackets and tuques come out. Nothing too exciting here except for I saw my first YAK. I heard stories of how large they are and until you see one face to face you can't fathom their size (and how much hair they have). Not only did we see the yaks, we say Blue Sheep and spotted deer, all of which are specific to these altitudes and climate. So with a warm fire, good company and more card games, Day 8 finished and the real fun begins tomorrow where we climb to Thorong Phedi or possible to High Camp, depending on how we all feel with the altitude...
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